Don’t get me wrong, over the years I have experimented with HDR/ToneMapping, Orton Effect, and all other crazy post processing techniques, but I always found that after a short time they just weren’t satisfying, they felt gimmicky. Over the years I’ve spent a lot of time out exploring with my cameras and in the last couple of years have started to notice a more focused shift in my photography (no pun intended) and a desire towards the simplified, clean and classic photograph. A place I can go to just center myself and find balance in life when things get hectic. Growing up and living in North Eastern Minnesota, being outdoors and just exploring is literally my happy place. I’m one of those photographers that enjoys shooting a little bit of everything, from portraits and weddings to real estate, but in my heart I always find myself back in nature.
But to get there I feel like I should explain. First why not a little history for you because this isn’t going to be a traditional review as much as it will be just a journal entry, mind dump of my thoughts about Mastin Labs Portra Pushed Pack. But be warned, I don’t really have much bad to say about them! I’m not being paid to say nice things about them, I’m going to give my honest opinions about the Portra Pushed Pack from the viewpoint of a landscape photographer. A little while back the awesome people over at Mastin Labs set me up with their all new Portra Pushed pack to let me put it through it’s paces. Meter for mid-tone areas of the image to preserve as much detail as possible in the shadows.Full disclosure.
This may result in muddy or grainy shadow areas. Areas where the light hit will be increased, but the true blacks on the image will remain untouched. Pushing film will not gain shadow detail.
MASTIN LABS PORTRA PUSHED DOWNLOAD FREE ISO
For example, you load Portra 160 into your camera, you set your ISO to 320 (this is 1 stop) and then you meter for ISO 320. You can add a stop through decreasing your shutter speed by opening up your aperture ( here is a handy aperture scale to help you understand what a stop is) or by shooting a faster film. When we describe how much we want to push the film we call it a ‘stop.’ A stop is 1 unit of light. It’s important to note that once you’ve set the ISO for that roll of film, you’re committed to shooting at that ISO for the entire film roll. Setting the ISO higher than the ISO of the film is called ‘pushing’ the film. By doing this, you’re telling your camera that the film is more sensitive to light than it is, thereby underexposing the film in capture. To push the film, you must set the ISO higher than the ISO indicated on the film. When you load film into your camera, you set the camera for the ISO for that film. Whereas ISO 1600 is a very fast or sensitive film. A high ISO number represents a higher sensitivity to light. A low ISO represents a low sensitivity to light. This number is a unit of measurement that represents that film’s sensitivity to light. In a nutshell, every roll of film is given a number that refers to the ISO of that film.
MASTIN LABS PORTRA PUSHED DOWNLOAD FREE HOW TO
Before understanding how to push film, you must first understand ISO. The first is the way you capture the image and the second is in developing the roll at the lab. Pushing expired film can create the look of fresh film! Jonathan says “A good rule of thumb is pushing 1 stop for every decade.” “A good rule of thumb is pushing 1 stop for every decade.” - Jonathan Canlas How to “push” film Side note – during our research we came across a really interesting practical application for pushing film from Jonathan Canlas of The Find Lab and Find in a Box. You’ll still need good light – if the subject is in deep shadow, pushing film won’t help. By pushing film, you are effectively increasing the film’s working ISO making it possible to shoot at higher shutter speeds to capture moving subjects or shoot in low light situations where you need a higher film speed. Pushing film has a practical application too. It’s important to know when you push film you will lose some shadow detail, which results in a high contrast look. When you push color negative film, contrast increases, grain increases, and some color shifts are introduced into the shadows. Many photographers push color negative film because it adds mood and emotion to the image. Watch the video below to learn how to push film, why you push it and tips for developing pushed film. If you are new to shooting film or haven’t experimented much with film, you may not be super familiar with the concept of ‘pushing’ your film. One of our missions at Mastin Labs is to encourage photographers to shoot film.
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